Exploring history, culture, and spirituality in Lomé, Togo
Our road trip from Ghana to Lomé, Togo, was filled with anticipation. It led us to the heart of Togo’s vibrant capital.
As we crossed the border, transitioning from English to French took effort. Still, we needed to reset to make our communication with the locals possible.
Our first stop in Lomé was the iconic Lomé Cathedral. With its striking white and bright red facade, the cathedral stood as a serene sanctuary amidst the bustling city streets. The tranquil atmosphere sharply contrasted with the lively urban energy outside. The stained glass windows painted the interiors colorfully, telling biblical stories. Our guide, a knowledgeable local with an infectious enthusiasm for his city’s history, explained the significance of the cathedral not just as a religious site but as a cultural symbol.
From the Cathedral, we ventured to the Grand Marché, a vibrant hub of commerce and culture. The market is a labyrinth of stalls, each overflowing with goods that range from colorful bolts of fabric to spices and carved handicrafts — the sounds of bargaining, laughter, and the Togolese dialects mixed with French. Here, our fluency in French truly came in handy, allowing us to chat with vendors, share jokes, and learn about the origins and uses of various items for sale. We noticed that the vendors were primarily women and children, each adding their unique energy and charm to the bustling marketplace. We were particularly drawn to a stall with beautifully patterned textiles, where the vendor demonstrated how each pattern tells a different story or symbolizes different aspects of Togolese life.
Our final stop was the intriguing Marché des Féticheurs, the renowned fetish market, which promised a deeper insight into the spiritual traditions of West Africa. Stalls displayed various items used in traditional healing and spiritual practices, including herbs, animal parts, and talismans. The market is also where spiritual knowledge and practices are passed down through generations. A local healer, spotting our curiosity, took the time to explain the significance of various items and share insights into the role of traditional medicine in Togolese society.
We reflected on our journey as the sun began setting over Lomé, casting long shadows across the bustling streets. Our road trip from Ghana to Lomé was more than a geographical journey; it was a profound exploration of history, culture, and spirituality that connected us to the soul of this vibrant city.
Maarten Schafer
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